Yeah, it looks like junk. I have never seen it look good in any game.

Paying isn’t a bad idea if you want to do that.

Google creeping on your privacy and your right to view HTML the way you choose to is gross and violating.

These two ideologies don’t have much overlap, and definitely can coexist separately.

If you didn’t download it, then what’s the point?

Instead of renaming it to “X,” Elon magically renamed his platform to “X, formerly known as Twitter.”

• 195g: https://www.continental-tires.com/products/b2c/bicycle/tires/competition/
• 200g: https://www.continental-tires.com/products/b2c/bicycle/tires/grand-prix-5000/
• 170g: https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/continental-grand-prix-5000-tt-tr-road-tire
• 195g: https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/continental-podium-tt-tubular-tire
• 180g: https://www.michelinman.com/bicycle/tires/michelin-power-time-trial
• 200g: https://www.vittoria.com/us/en/tires/road-tires/corsa-speed

It’s lighter because instead of compounds inside of the tire, there is air.

Looks heavy.

Hey look, a real photo of a hacker

Wired headphones? What else?

Every one of your points have been a solved problem for a while. We had small, light, durable, and even waterproof connectors before Apple called removing them “courage” (it was to sell more wireless headphones), and people with monetary incentives started to remove them, too.

It depends on what you’re trying to do. If you want a social media site based around videos with a variety of features with high traffic, then sure. If you’re just archiving stuff for the sake of it, then you can simply host static content.

There are also many other places to store stuff than YouTube.

While I don’t want the YouTube channel to be shut down, I couldn’t imagine that YouTube is the only place this exists and it’s the only place it can be hosted.

You should try it. Keep in mind that Valve has never sold a Steam Deck running Windows, and it’s a hit. A lot of folks never even realize that they’re gaming on Linux. It’s that transparent.

I’m a full-time Vim and Linux user when writing code. I agree with the statement that “simply switching” editors is very naive. I’m my personal opinion, you should decide on an editor that makes sense to you and learn to be very good at it. If VS Code is that answer, then great. Not everything points to Vim or Emacs.

Change banks

What would you prefer? Hot-swappable batteries add bulk 🙂

You don’t disassemble the entire thing. You remove a few screws and remove the back cover. There are some plastic clips to be mindful of, but side from that, it’s not much harder than upgrading RAM in a laptop.

Compare this to something like an iPhone that is sealed shut with adhesive, and you have to peel off the fragile glass digitizer and screen off. Then remove every component, and the battery is bound to the back of the chassis with adhesive. And Apple wants to sue outlets that actually do this.

Totally different game.

I don’t expect this to be a permanent place to archive this material :) I’ve been thinking of putting a website up (or even a GitHub repository) to archive this stuff at some point. This gives us a small community to share development, pictures, have some nerd chat, etc.

I’m really happy to say that someone already popped in and shared some programs from their friend’s stash of burned optical media! There were some dead links on archive.org for some of these, and now we have them!!

Hey I made a little Discord server with a bunch of archived WristApps, sound themes, and software if you wanna join and pick through it :)

https://discord.gg/nqKcKz2ZbE

I wish it could, but no, LCDs work fundamentally different than CRTs. See the reasoning here:

https://github.com/synthead/timex_datalink_crt#crt-display-requirement

This library works with a Notebook Adapter, which could be one of the original DB9 RS232C serial devices or a DIY emulator like https://github.com/synthead/timex-datalink-arduino! Here is a Teensy LC running timex-datalink-arduino, syncing a Datalink 150 using its onboard LED!

The small onboard LED allows a Timex Datalink 150 watch to sync from a few inches away. With an external LED, it is possible to sync your watch from several feet away.

An LED can be added tidily to the Teensy LC by soldering an LED cathode (short leg) to the ground pin near the PROG pin, then connecting the anode (long leg) to pin 13 with a resistor, as pictured below.

I discovered that the best performance is obtained by using white LEDs, but every color I tested worked without problems. The LED pictured above is a white 20mA/3-3.2V 14000mcd LED paired with a stiff ¼W 22Ω resistor.